Impressions: Santo Toribio

Finally today to Santa Toribio. A beautiful quiet place, described in a guide as ´a little corner of Spain where the small flame of christianity kept burning while Spain was conquered by the moors´. A monastery here was founded as early as the sixt century. Santo Toribio de Liebana was bishop of Astorga. He brought the part of the holy cross from Jerusalem around the year 450.  It was hidden in the mountains of Asturias in the last free part of Spain, to save it from the islamic invasion.

I could go into the chapel before the first tourists arrived. The Lignum Crusis was glorified by morning sun and shadow. But it was far away behind a fence.

I walk out again and meet Emilio - sunburnt and a friendly face - and his lovely black dog Turco. He sits in the hot sun and waits for some donations. Peregrino? Si. Christian? Si. Emilio is wandering the Camino´s of Spain since nine years. He also goes to Fatima in Portugal, or to Covadonga; sometimes where the wind leads him, sometimes where the money is, or the sun. He walked the Lebaniego to, and went via the mountain trails, because walking the road all day isn´t good for Turco´s feet. ´Turco is my father, my mother, my cousin: he´s my family´, Emilio says. He lives from what the tourists give him. He doesn´t speak to them, he just sits quietly and waits for what is to come. He is at ease and satisfied with his life and doesn´t envy people with many possesions or long holidays. Emilio sleeps outside on quiet places.
Next try in the chapel. The fence is open, and a monk has come in, but I´m to late. A meter away from me he brings back the Lignum Crusis back to it´s place. Still, I feel touched to be so close to the relic. 

Outside again and I take a look in the very nice souvenir shop. I talk to the woman that runs it, her name is Mariasun. She tells me there are five monks living in the monastery, aged from 65 to 98. Once there were 19 monasteries in the region. The monks are in the midst of society. They work in surrounding parochies, and when I was in the chapel you could go into a confession corner in the Capilla del Reconciliacion, where a monje was seated. Mariasun offers me a coffee, with, yes, Maria biscuits. Such a pleasant talk.
Third try in the chapel. Two Spanish couples are listening to the monk, who talks as if the recorder went crazy. Sure he does this many times a day. Then he invites us to come close, and.....I can touch the cross! 
A suitable end to this little journey off the Camino. ´We´- those who walk the Camino Lebaniego, aren´t even called peregrinos, but Crucenos. Ah, that sounds as a tiny little step closer to heaven.