Camino Portugués, Ruta de la Costa

Last summer I walked the Camino Portugues de la Costa - the Portugese Coastal Way from Porto to Santiago, because I wanted a quiet way and a more moderate temperature. It was a good choice. Although the coastal area is sometimes very busy, the walkways are pleasant and there is enough accommodation. What you can see is beach life, fishermen, nature, vivid cities and villages, and of course the ever changing mighty ocean. Again I noticed the difference between the Camino Frances and other ways: the coast way gives you more the feeling of walking through a country than walking a pilgrims way. Of course you encounter other pilgrims on the way or in albergues. And you can see and read a lot of the rich history of this Camino, esp. in churches. But its presence is never as dominant as the Camino Frances often is.
I also walked two days on the Variante Espiritual - see next article- between Pontevedra and Padron.

Beach life includes dozens of schoolclasses on day trips to the ocean

Portugal is a country of readers

This was my guide book. It is not as accurate as a travel guide should be, but you'll get there. The signage is very good.

Baiona, Spanje

Water, Stones & Secret Agents

La Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua - the route of stone and water - is most certainly one of the most beautiful walks I've ever had, on the Camino or elsewhere. The first part is an unspoiled wilderness, a wild stream with lots of small old watermills, weathered, covered in green, most of them without a roof, but with the millstones still there. The path is green to, and part of it all.

Ingenious ways were found to create waterchutes to power the mills with water.

After a few kilometers downstream there is more civilization; a newer path, lit in the evening, a cafe, a parking place, mountain bikers on the path again. A somewhat threatening sign announces that the European Union supports restoration.Hopefully the balance between conservation and leaving things as they where for many centuries will be held.

A wonderful walk of 7,5 kilometers that ended on this particular day on a terrace with a special guest. There was some unusual activity- military motorbikes, lots of police. Joggers who weren’t joggers, these big guys talking into earphones. It turned out that the Spanish prime minister, Mariano Rajoy had also been enjoying some of the mills, and was having a drink now at the table next to me. Pontevedra is his home area. Nice guy, gave a very friendly greeting when he left. 

This Ruta is part of the Variante Espiritual, a new alternative for the Portuguese way between Pontevedra and Padron. Two wonderful, quiet walking days. Especially the second with the above part and a path along the Arousa river, is great. There are two municipal albergues with very nice and cooperative hospitaleros. Last year only 400 people walked this Variante. The last day can be done as a boat trip. Further details, information and background:  Variante Espiritual

Ria de Arousa

Treasures of the Camino in Iria Flavia

An old abandoned house next to the church. The door was open. Inside, amongst  the mess... a pile of religious magazines. The oldest one I found was printed in Madrid in 1899. Nice discovery in Iria Flavia, where everything seems to be old, and yet older.

Made a sketch of the grave of Camilo Jose Cela, the famous Galician writer, born in Padron.

He is buried near the church Santa Maria de Iria, surrounded by old tombstones. It also preserves a necropolis of the Suevi (6th Century AD).