La Grande Dame del Camino

The mayor cities along the Camino Frances all have their own character. You will walk through Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon towards Santiago. I'd say Burgos is the Grande Dame.  

Old. Wealthy, but not to fancy. Well-maintained. Renewed with respect for the history. Well-organized (a really car free towncentre, not theoretically traffic free like in many Spanish cities). Still a lot of old shops present and alive. Not the noisy traffic of megatowns like Barcelona. The cathedral is about Santiago's equal, although very different in character and style. The church is very present in this town. So is a vivid modern streetlife. A good town to stay, Burgos.

San Lesmes, the quiet (and free!) alternative for the cathedral. It's on the Camino.

A La Villa de Madrid is a lovely old shop selling thousands of religious articles. The owner paints a lot of articles herself, in the shop. When I was there a nun came in. The row of costumers suddenly vanished and she was being served first.

Pilgrims hospital, founded in 1466

An old cemetery in Santiago

Very beautiful art project in Santiago. Old cellars on a cemetery have been coloured. Originally (part of?) the graves were on the Quintana de Mortos, the old square next to the cathedral. So we might assume that a lot of pilgrims are buried here.

impressions: Santiago de Compostela

Praza de Cervantes

Once a city reaches the status of take-away coffees and hamburger formulas, some of Spain gets sort of lost there. Santiago de Compostela is the first place - after 800 kilometers along this so hospitable Camino Frances - where I have to pay my coffee right away...
Still, street life is fabulous here. Voices everywhere, people meeting, saying hello.

Once is present everywhere. It's the giant lottery based on the sales of the blind on streetcorners.  Spaniards like to gamble - lotteries, smoking, flirting...

Sunlight and shadow playing everywhere. Old stone is the foundation, in every gradation of grey. Nobody notices a 300 year old fountain. The square has it's own church- of course. The door is open.
The paces are so different. The student rushes, talking into his cellphone. Late, as everywhere in the world. Old men wandering quietly to their daily shop visit. Musicians playing- this is Santiago. Tourist place. Deutsch, Italiano.
An older businessman. Slowing down already. But certain in where he goes. Doesn't have to prove himself anymore, but still likes the excitement. Quick cigar.
Other people asking you for cigarettes. Beggars, homeless people. Into their own world. Still always looking around for chances.
A mother meets her friend. One eye at the children. But they will follow.
And then, the young pretty girl. She knows about the glances. This is one world.

Camino Frances 2012/ Final destination Santiago?

On October 12. I reached Santiago. The gates of the cathedral were closed. I couldn't touch the foot of Jacob, like pilgrims had done centuries before me - how often I had thought how special this moment would be - there was a fence around the statue. I went to the mass and had no place to sit- crowded with tourists.

A nun was singing a beautiful song, she gave me shivers. But it was the only emotion. The cathedral itself felt empty. The priest was murmering in Spanish - no contact. When the priests walked away after the service they didn't make eye contact, not a friendly smile, nothing.
I am not catholic, not religious, yet I expected more from this visit. The next day I tried again. Even more people... I missed the reserved places for peregrinos, would have been a nice gesture from this church. Another service where the priests seemed to speak to...above...not to me. I dreamt away, musing about the many places along the Camino where I did feel contact with the church, the people inside, the statues. Quiet places loaded with a special atmosphere.

But then they started swinging the botafumeiro. And this finally felt better, the whole cathedral seemed relieved. And I felt ready for Finisterre, the real end of the Camino.

impressie: León, de oude Santa Maria

Langzaam schuifelen de oude vrouwen naar binnen. Een loopt nog even gauw voor een gesprekje naar de priester in het zijvertrek. Gedempte stemmen. Dan komt hij binnen voor de mis. Hij zit als op een troon tussen zijn eeuwenoude kunstschatten. Het is eenzaam daar vooraan bij het altaar. De priester voert de oeroude rituelen uit. Je hoeft geen Spaans te spreken, de bijbelse intonatie is universeel.

Klein gebaar van menselijkheid toch. De vraag komt je naastbijzittende te groeten en de hand te geven. Even de cadans doorbroken.

Dan weer stilte.
Zonlicht op messias.
Taferelen te mooi voor alledag zijn het toch.
Pieta.


<impression of a church visit in León. You'll understand>

Cities along the Camino

The Camino Frances should be a bit more about countryside. The cities form breaking points. People take rest there, go or arrive from train or airport, groups form or split up.
The character is totally different. Pamplona- although beautiful: not a place to stay long for me. Tourism, to much of a party town. Logrono- no special memory about it... Burgos: sleeping beauty queen, León: great, vivid, the right size, beautiful. Far enough on the Camino, you're in it now. And Santiago, well about Santiago, I'll get back on that.

Despite the impression given by highways and the endless industrial areas, the towns of Northern Spain are all quite small: Pamplona has 195.000, Logrono 150.000, Burgos 180.000, Leon 130.000, Santiago 95.000 inhabitants.