Camino Primitivo 2013/ Best suit

The man on this photo is not related to this story

Walking through a small Asturian village. A man and a woman are harvesting their potatoes on a large field next to their house. I ask them where the next bar is. "Not here. No people here!"And the man starts telling about his village, his wife standing silently next to him. Wide arm gestures confirming how empty the landscape is. Nobody to work the fields. The people go to the cities, he says. And talks with pain in his eyes about his six children, all living far away in Madrid, Valencia. Of course they come over every summer. Of course he and his wife live in a beautiful region. In an old village with a monumental house. His garden gives a fertile harvest. But nothing can take the daily pain away of the changes they had to face. That loss of not seeing your grandchildren growing up every day. He looks at his wife. They acquiesce in it, but with dignity and strength. Life goes on, the harvest goes on.

I walk on, and keep wondering for a long time why he was harvesting potatoes in his best suit.

                                       

impressions: Praza do Campo, Lugo

The only larger city you will pass on the Primitivo is Lugo. Blessed this city is, with it's 1.700 years old walls still protecting the centre of town. The old inner city is only being visited by delivery vans and construction workers, but most of the busy traffic stays outside the walls. As well as the huge shops and hotels. The Roman Walls form a perfect walk around the town, providing an excellent view.

On the Praza do Campo you can look in any direction and the streetview is great. Partly it could be 17. Century. Which is rare in this town without any city planning.

Impressions on the Camino Primitivo (July 26.-August 11. 2013)

Frontier

The Asturias countryside is real farmers country. In the small villages it's all about cattle. Some of the farms are quite large; Asturias provides Spain with milk, although it is rarely sold fresh. Milk for the cafe con leche and for flan. Around Tineo the Camino Primitivo provides its most beautiful walking days, as far as I'm concerned. Endless old paths through the fields, all unpaved, little hamlets, beautiful old forests.

Around Tineo the best kilometers of hiking trail of the Primitivo, following old farmers roads

Campiello looks like a wild west frontier town. Last stop before the Sierra. One big cattle food factory dominates the small town. Trucks are driving in and out, big tractors passing by. Before the bars are worn out Landrovers and other four wheel drives. Spaniards are fond of big cars. Some with bull bars and towing equipment, some with sheep in the back. Always dusty and with  dents. Farmers, construction workers, truck drivers keep the bars alive. Sometimes the men keep the motor running while walking into the bar for a quick drink. Coffee in the early morning, after nine it's beer and stronger. The older, retired men walk or drive from one bar to another- would their wives notice if they stayed too long? Why else would you drive thirty meters for another drink? 

A few days later in Castro. This morning a fresh, strong wind brought clouds. It has been almost 40 degrees here for a few days, somebody tells me. These are Meseta temperatures. Asturias is usually cooler. The land is fertile and green. Most people have a garden with vegetables and fruits, and some chickens. Lots of chopped wood for the winter. Other wood is for the fences that have replaced the old stone walls. Agriculture has intensified, but it's still nothing compared to Holland.There are still uncultivated parts of the hills, covered with heather or trees. In the higher mountain ranges the cattle graze without fences. In the lower valleys all is more regulated. Milk, Europe and also the Camino brought more prosperity. Maybe it just kept a grocery store from closing down, a small hotel opened, more business for taxi drivers. Some private albergues, although they are rare. The Primitivo is not as busy as the Camino Frances, of course. But there are enough places to stay.

Although you can see some very beautiful monasteries and churches, the religious heritage that is so present on the Frances isn't as evident on the Primitivo.  Another difference is the lack of messages on walls, stones; they are rare. So is the litter!
Because of the numbers of people the Camino Frances is dominating many (smaller) places, it's present everywhere. Walking the Primitivo feels more like normal Spain, which, on the other hand, leads to a less pronounced Camino 'spirit'. The number of people walking (and cycling) for reasons of sports, condition, challenge surpasses that of the pilgrims. I could really feel the difference, walking into Melide, where the Primitivo joins the Frances.   

Practical: I did Oviedo-Santiago in 16 walking days.

Monasterio de Santa María la Real (Obona)

Near Obona (municipality of Tineo), a short path is leading from the Primitivo to one of the great hidden treasures of the trail: the Monasterio de Santa Maria de Real. The oldest parts date from around 780. Abandoned since 200 years, the ruin is beautifully covered by nature. Mystical place to be.

What about money

Crowdfunding; PWYW. It's hot. The Camino has it's own ways in the money issue. On the Primitivo there were quite a lof of donativo albergues. The price is voluntarily: you pay what you think the bed, the food, the hospitality is worth to you. The Camino Frances also has these donativo albergues, although it seems to be hard to compete with all the others. The idea is great, and fits well into the old tradition of pilgrims travelling without money. I met young people now and then who tried to walk the entire Camino without money. Sometimes they earned money with selfmade jewelry or souvenirs.

On the photo a donativo market stable with fresh products like fruit, water and coffee

little jewels on the Camino

'Coffee, tea and a stamp for a smile'