Frontier
The Asturias countryside is real farmers country. In the small villages it's all about cattle. Some of the farms are quite large; Asturias provides Spain with milk, although it is rarely sold fresh. Milk for the cafe con leche and for flan. Around Tineo the Camino Primitivo provides its most beautiful walking days, as far as I'm concerned. Endless old paths through the fields, all unpaved, little hamlets, beautiful old forests.
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| Around Tineo the best kilometers of hiking trail of the Primitivo, following old farmers roads |
Campiello looks like a wild west frontier town. Last stop before the Sierra. One big cattle food factory dominates the small town. Trucks are driving in and out, big tractors passing by. Before the bars are worn out Landrovers and other four wheel drives. Spaniards are fond of big cars. Some with bull bars and towing equipment, some with sheep in the back. Always dusty and with dents. Farmers, construction workers, truck drivers keep the bars alive. Sometimes the men keep the motor running while walking into the bar for a quick drink. Coffee in the early morning, after nine it's beer and stronger. The older, retired men walk or drive from one bar to another- would their wives notice if they stayed too long? Why else would you drive thirty meters for another drink?
A few days later in Castro. This morning a fresh, strong wind brought clouds. It has been almost 40 degrees here for a few days, somebody tells me. These are Meseta temperatures. Asturias is usually cooler. The land is fertile and green. Most people have a garden with vegetables and fruits, and some chickens. Lots of chopped wood for the winter. Other wood is for the fences that have replaced the old stone walls. Agriculture has intensified, but it's still nothing compared to Holland.There are still uncultivated parts of the hills, covered with heather or trees. In the higher mountain ranges the cattle graze without fences. In the lower valleys all is more regulated. Milk, Europe and also the Camino brought more prosperity. Maybe it just kept a grocery store from closing down, a small hotel opened, more business for taxi drivers. Some private albergues, although they are rare. The Primitivo is not as busy as the Camino Frances, of course. But there are enough places to stay.
Although you can see some very beautiful monasteries and churches, the religious heritage that is so present on the Frances isn't as evident on the Primitivo. Another difference is the lack of messages on walls, stones; they are rare. So is the litter!
Because of the numbers of people the Camino Frances is dominating many (smaller) places, it's present everywhere. Walking the Primitivo feels more like normal Spain, which, on the other hand, leads to a less pronounced Camino 'spirit'. The number of people walking (and cycling) for reasons of sports, condition, challenge surpasses that of the pilgrims. I could really feel the difference, walking into Melide, where the Primitivo joins the Frances.
Practical: I did Oviedo-Santiago in 16 walking days.
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