always

Sure, every kilometer towards it contributes. Still, my camino gets it's highlight on the meseta. First the beloved stay in Castrojeriz. The next morning up the Mostalares. It took me a long time, heaviness in more than pack and heat.

Up there, overlooking the plains, I sense what I come for. Down into the deep, into the sun, no end, no shadow. All the way up to Leon - the finest parts of this Camino. Gimme no shelter.

Way be straight
way be endless
sun burn me
touch me
be in my heart
camino
siempre


Camino Meseta 2015

This day in June. Lingering, seeing what I can see. And knowing the hot afternoon sun is waiting. With a burning sun and a straight path all the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza. I am late. I walk alone. My brothers are further up the road. The other pilgrims have gone by.

All I want is sit in the shadow. But the path has to be taken. And there is no shadow. My water is not endless. A sense of fear. But what can happen, the earth will carry me. I force myself to collect stones. And write them. And lay them on the path. Don't look back. 

A special encounter in Castrojeriz

© Nia Peiro

Touching moments watching this one and other photos Nia Peiro made with and of Mau Mariani.

Accompanied by pure wise words. There is one quote - the one that spoke loudest to my heart - I want to share with you: the ideal man is he who, in the moments of most intense activity, knows how to find the silence and the loneliness of the desert. This man has achieved self mastery. 

Nia Peiro and Mau Mariani made their exhibition in this so beautiful house in Castrojeriz. You will find it on the Camino. My brother and I had the privilege of meeting Mau and talk to him about the Camino, life, souls meeting... 

An eternal pilgrim, Mau calls himself. Hospital del Alma, the hospital of the soul. Sure it can be.

Meanwhile (2018) the house is called The Temple of Silence

The garden

The Wild Chapel

Inside the Wild Chapel, the place I was drawn to 

It's about silence

The silence I feel within myself
is so huge is goes beyond the words
it brings peace within
and a hold in my life

It even eases
the bitter tears
of past and youth

It is in me
it’s me

Simon Wijma

April 2015

Rumi says:
a silence overtakes me
and I wonder
how I ever got to the idea
to use words 

Silence 'n solitude

and brotherhood

Camino 2015

Ermita de San Miguel Arcangel

It's 'treasures' lead a boring life in a museum in Pamplona. The real treasure cannot be taken away from this place. This little chapel or ermita is about a 100 metres from the Camino (between Lorca and Estella) and therefore visited by few. The empty space inside is so stuffed with silence.

 

Hey, and...there definitely must be a good spirit in this chapel. We had a break there, and I was the last one who left. After a hundred metres I got the feeling something whas missing. So I walked back, and under the table where we lunched was my wallet. Fell out of my pack and I hadn't seen it.

Decisions

Walking into Viana. A vivid little town, and the air was filled with swallows. The old church reigned the town centre. Although not run-down, it had the atmosphere of a ruin. High on the tower weird iron cages. I imagined the Inquisition showing prisoners there, before throwing them out to warn other sinners.

We sat on a square next to the church. Coffee. Wifi. Chats. Until the albergue was about to open. I had a short talk with a friendly man, walking out of the parish albergue. We went to the other albergue.

Long line of people. Moving the line wasn't easy. Some grumpy people. Sort of tension in the air. A joke that wasn't a joke. Suddenly I said: it doesn't feel good here. Just expressing what we all felt: the whole group had a sudden shake of relief. Everybody nodded: 'Lets go to the parish.' So all eight of us packed our bags and left the row.
Wow, I felt so strong, and proud of what we did. Of course there was room for us in the parish albergue. And such a warm welcome. Like lost children.

Hospitality and spirit lll

Of course the church is very present on the Camino Frances. There are many albergues run by parishes, christian organizations or monasteries. Two examples of kind hospitality can be found in Arre and in Viana. 

In Trinidad de Arre most people walk for the call of the city: Pamplona. That's why this albergue is very quiet. 

Viana

Paco and Ignatio, voluntarios del albergue parochial Viana

In Viana, next to the beautiful old church, is a small parochial albergue. The spiritual food there -find out yourself how- is as good as the profane food. 

Hospitality and spirit ll

I heard there are around 700 albergues on the Camino, don't know if that is a right estimation. But I noticed there are a lot of changes, and a lot of new albergues since 2012. The Camino is shaped by all those who walk it. But the hospitaleros have a very important supportive role. Hospitality can be found in many varieties. I tend to make a rough division: those who care about people -dedicated to the Camino and/or their profession- and those who care more about making money. You will usually feel the difference within minutes when you walk into a new albergue.

I came to San Bol this year. In 2012 a place without welcome, and now I met new people. And had a great talk and good coffee with Sandra and Hernan. It's great they are giving San Bol new energy and the good spirit.

San Bol is an intriguing place. The village on this place was abandoned in 1503. It was a Jewish settlement. That is why it may have been left, the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492.
It's remote, for five kilometers around San Bol there is no house or village. You will only be accompanied by the lovely sound of the poplars. Under the building is an old well. A dome gives the place this special look. Good place to stay.

 

The last remaining stone of the village

The well

You can enjoy the healthy, fresh water from the well....

Good place for meditation

Hospitality and spirit l

A second visit to Viloria de Rioja, where Acacio and Orietta have their lovely small refugio. Ja it feels more like a shelter. Again a warm welcome. And such good talks.

Intriguing and important matters. Questions that ask for answers.

Is the meseta the most important, the deepening part of the Camino?

Why do so many people skip this part of the Way?

Where are the black people on the Way?

Where are the pilgrims from Africa?

Has the Camino once been a pilgrimage road in the other direction? Where to?

I have invited Acacio to write on this blog.

* To be continued.

Orietta and me

La Grande Dame del Camino

The mayor cities along the Camino Frances all have their own character. You will walk through Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon towards Santiago. I'd say Burgos is the Grande Dame.  

Old. Wealthy, but not to fancy. Well-maintained. Renewed with respect for the history. Well-organized (a really car free towncentre, not theoretically traffic free like in many Spanish cities). Still a lot of old shops present and alive. Not the noisy traffic of megatowns like Barcelona. The cathedral is about Santiago's equal, although very different in character and style. The church is very present in this town. So is a vivid modern streetlife. A good town to stay, Burgos.

San Lesmes, the quiet (and free!) alternative for the cathedral. It's on the Camino.

A La Villa de Madrid is a lovely old shop selling thousands of religious articles. The owner paints a lot of articles herself, in the shop. When I was there a nun came in. The row of costumers suddenly vanished and she was being served first.

Pilgrims hospital, founded in 1466

Sober

One of my most joyful moments on Spain's Caminos was making this photograph. Camino Primitivo, end of July 2013. It was a noisy, ugly village with many closed shops. The treasure was to be found on a terrace where I had my first morning break. Four older men at a table. I asked them if I could photograph their bottle. I wanted it for my blog. Of course they allowed me. When the picture was taken they offered me a Soberano drink. So I zipped my 'first brandy of the day' at 9:30 in the morning.. Good Johnny Walker that day!

Some advice. And a packing list

Some good advice about the Way of the Stars

1. Take your time

2. Take as little as possible with you

That's all you need!

Over the years I have noticed that carrying only what you need gives so much pleasure. This is different for everybody. Fully packed, my backpack is usually around 11,5 kilo, but the challenge is to keep it under 10, rather 8. This is good for your feet and body, making days lighter and longer distances possible. Pay the most attention to a good backpack and good shoes. And you can buy things you might miss along the way, which is better than carrying along stuff you’re not sure of. For me, it was my rain gaiters or gamaschen. I finally left them behind 'in sight of the cathedral'.

A lot of extra weight is in a heavy sleeping bag and to much heavy clothing. Or excess food and water. You don't need the heaviest walking shoes, there is a lot of easy terrain on the Camino Frances. And, most importantly, taking care of your feet: I used Gehwohl foot cream. It is difficult to find in Spain, you need one tube for a month. It is the best, and it helps prevent a lot of problems.

MY PACKING LIST CAMINO (Spain April-October)

Backpack

Rain Jacket or Poncho (fitting over your backpack)

Long trousers linen or synthetic

Shorts

Walking shirts 2

T-shirt / blouse

Fleece

Underwear 3

Walking socks 2 pairs

Socks 1 pair

Swimsuit

Walking shoes (light ones are okay, class AB suitable for Camino Frances)

Light sandals

Sunglasses

Hat

Thin sleeping bag

Sleeping bag liner (silk is light and protects against bedbugs)

Very good ear plugs

Towel (light/small)

Plastic bag (Ziploc) for valuables while showering

Tick removing tools

Bandages

Mug

Pocket knife

Plastic fork/spoon

Headlamp / Small flashlight (or in phone)

Cellphone & Charger

Moneybelt with Money / ID / Credit Card / Bank card

Passport

Pilgrim's Passport

Small day backpack

Two plastic water bottles half a liter each (it is not necessary to carry more, you can buy or fill from fountains for extra in really hot weather)

Small roll toilet paper

Toiletry bag

Sun cream

Small piece of soap

Toothbrush

Toothpaste

Gehwohl footcreme (from Germany, start ten days ahead, not available in Spain, 1 tube= about a month)

Diary

Pen

If you want:

Walking stick(s), esp. climbing and descending is easier (esp. when it is slippery, rainy) and lighter for you knees. it just depends on what you like..

Walking guide

Cable/sdcard reader for cellphone or camera

Camera & Charger

Music/ earbuds

Book

Shaving stuff

Buen Camino! Simon Wijma

Haglofs... since twenty years serving me

Via de la Plata 2014

This year I only had time to walk the last 100 kilometers of the Via de la Plata. A diverse Camino, beautiful scenery. It is an exciting idea that the Silver Way is a thousand kilometers long, all the way from Sevilla. From what I heard from other pilgrims the rest is very worthwhile to. Especially when you like endless, dusty, empty roads...